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Avoiding duds and fakes before you bid

Sourcing · 6 min read

Every reseller has a shelf of mistakes — items bought at auction that turned out to be worthless, fake, or unfixable. You can't eliminate duds entirely; it's the nature of buying sight-unseen, as-is goods. But most duds announce themselves in the listing. Here's what to check before your bid becomes a lesson.

Fakes and counterfeits

Counterfeits are common in liquidation lots, especially in sneakers, designer bags, watches, headphones, and branded apparel. The warning signs: brand names in the lot title without any close-up photos of logos, stitching, or serial numbers; prices that seem too good for the claimed brand; and descriptions that say things like "style" or "inspired by" next to a big brand name.

If a lot claims a premium brand, zoom into every photo looking for the marks of authenticity — logo placement, font quality, stitching, and serial or model tags. If the photos are too blurry to verify and the house won't provide clearer ones, assume the worst and bid as if it's unbranded. Never describe a resale item as a brand you're not confident about — selling counterfeits can get your marketplace accounts banned and, depending on your jurisdiction, create legal trouble. When in doubt, list it as unbranded or skip it entirely.

Electronics you can't test

The biggest source of duds in liquidation is electronics. "Untested" in a listing doesn't mean "probably works" — it means nobody checked, and you should price in the chance it doesn't. Customer-return electronics were returned for a reason; sometimes that reason is buyer's remorse, but sometimes it's a dead unit.

Red flags specific to electronics:

Stick to electronics you can test cheaply at home — a power cable and ten minutes — and treat anything else as a gamble with a appropriately low ceiling.

Missing parts and incomplete sets

An item missing its accessories is worth a fraction of a complete one. The classic killers: game consoles without controllers, power tools without batteries, cameras without lenses, appliances without attachments. The listing photos tell you — count what's in the frame and compare it against what the item normally includes. If you know the product, you'll spot what's absent in seconds.

This applies to sets too: a "complete" dinnerware set with the serving pieces missing, or a tool kit with empty slots in the case. Partial sets sell, but at partial prices — bid accordingly.

Stock photos and inflated retail claims

If the listing uses manufacturer stock photos instead of pictures of the actual items, you're not bidding on what you think you're bidding on. The real items may be damaged, incomplete, or different models entirely. Stock photos are a signal to either skip the lot or bid very conservatively.

Similarly, be skeptical of the "retail value" in the description. Auction listings sometimes quote the manufacturer's suggested price of a brand-new item, which has little to do with what a used, untested unit will actually sell for. Your research into recent sold prices is the only valuation that matters — never let the listing's numbers set your ceiling.

Your pre-bid checklist

Duds are tuition in this business — everyone pays some. The checklist doesn't eliminate them, but it makes sure you're paying as little tuition as possible. And for what to do once the good lots are won, see our guides on pricing for resale and photos and listings that sell.

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